Gone Boy
- Start date: 10 August 2023
- Age When Completed: 30
- Direction Walked: North to South
General Comments
The Bibbulmun Track has amazing infrastructure and is generally in great shape. A few sections were noticeably less loved than others with perhaps a better distribution of volunteer hours required. There are some slightly perplexing decisions in track layout (see the weaving around an existing paved path north of Denmark that no doubt damages the coastal environment just to avoid the concrete…), and the low-key nature of the track means that many track towns have not yet fully embraced the hike as the economic titan it could be – which then becomes a chicken-egg issue where a lack of resources (looking at Balingup where trail angels are depended upon) mean the Track is less appealing. The worst aspect I found was the situation around Denmark with conflicting advice on crossing the inlet via the sandbar, which then makes a Denmark resupply a big undertaking, and the resultant non-continuous nature of the Track.
Food/Supplies Comments
If you are used to standard long-distance hiking fare, resupplying in towns is easy with the added benefit of improving the local economies and hence the experience for future hikers! Resupply boxes are not necessary. Donnelly River Village was the only “resupply” that wasn’t suitable.
Favourite Section
The section from Northcliffe through to Denmark is mind-blowingly varied with the typical forests giving way to the Pingerup Plains, tingle forest, and coastal heathland. The inlet crossings provide a change of pace and the campsites are just divine (if you ignore the mosquitoes!).
Highlights
Meeting other hikers on track is always the highlight of any hike for me. The transient lifestyle and withdrawal from the anonymity of modern life means that the friendships and relationships are intense, ephemeral, and open. A night around a campfire is enough to transform a group of strangers into a band of brothers/sisters.
Personal Reactions
I always imagined WA as a desert with nice beaches. The diversity displayed by the Track is incredible and a true asset to the state. Why the Bibbulmun is not more widely known is a mystery to me after my End-to-End!
Wildlife
Not being a WA native, the wildlife was fantastic, if mildly terrifying. Plenty of close encounters with tiger snakes and dugites lead to the purchase of gaiters in Denmark. Wading puddles full of tadpoles, frogs, fish, and marrons was surreal. Mobs of kangaroos allowing me to walk blindly into their midst. Unbelievable bird life, often centred on the campsites with little birds fearlessly showing off.
Your Best Equipment
My trekking poles. Even as a fit youngster (30 is young, right?) I would have fallen multiple times without them. I’ve never known someone to try hiking poles and not become an immediate convert! Buy a cheap pair and see the difference in your hiking – they’re great for ascending, descending, slippy rocks, testing puddle depth, utilising lighter tents, and more!
Your Worst Equipment
My narrow-mouth water bottle. Brought it for compatibility with my water filter, but too many of the taps on the watertanks oversprayed and resulted in wasted water. Definitely bring a wide mouth bottle or bladder to ensure that you don’t lose water down the side of your bottle!
Advice for Others
Hike your own hike. There is no right or wrong way to hike the Bibbulmun, as long as you do it safely and let others hike their own hikes too. Hike it fast or slow, hike it with 5kg or 30, hike it on a budget or lavishly, hike it on a whim or plan for 10 years. Whatever you do, just hike it!