Voices from the Track: Following a Dream, Fifteen Years in the Making
Klaus and Sonja at the start of their thru-hike of the Bibbulmun Track
Fifteen years ago, during a seven-month sabbatical, Klaus and Sonja travelled across Australia by camper van. While exploring the South West, they kept seeing a yellow sign on day walks. The idea of a rainbow serpent guiding walkers for a thousand kilometres through forest, coastal heath and ancient granite sparked something. “What an adventure it might be to follow these signs…” they thought.
“A yellow sign and a dream that stayed with us”
Back home near Frankfurt, that spark didn’t fade. They slowly expanded their hiking horizons, starting with the Goldsteig, a 500 km route across Bavaria, then the 700 km Alpe Adria Track from Italy through Slovenia to Austria. Yet every time they visited friends who were seasoned long-distance hikers, one thing kept drawing their eyes: a Bibbulmun Track map displayed proudly on the wall. No other track their friends had done was displayed quite like that.
An adventure in the making for many years
“We got more and more curious,” they said. “What’s so special about this track? We asked questions, and eventually we decided to go and find out.”
Feeling the full rhythm of the Track
“Section hiking is a good way to explore regions or fit walking into limited time. But to really experience a track, to feel it in all its variety, an end-to-end (or thru-hike) is the best way.”
They spent eight weeks on the Bibbulmun Track: 50 hiking days and seven rest days in towns. They finished on 25 November — just one day before Sonja’s birthday. Earlier in the journey, on hiking day 12, they had celebrated Klaus’s 60th birthday at Swamp Oak. True milestones on a memorable adventure.
Moments that linger
Many moments stood out. Some were the big ones they’d been anticipating, like seeing the Southern Ocean appear at Mandalay Beach after days of forest walking. But others were gentler, quieter:
“The food drop from our trail angel Jim let us walk 11 days through the first section. Afternoons with Lucy and Sasha. Watching the sunset with Michael at Woolbales. Sharing town days at the pub with fellow hikers.”
Seeing the Southern Ocean after days of forest walking marked one of the highlights.
These were the kinds of simple, human moments that long-distance hiking tends to weave together.
The hardest part? Not quite what you’d expect
You might imagine flooded plains, blowdowns or steep climbs being the toughest. And yes, they had their moments. But Klaus pointed to something else entirely:
“The hardest thing was watching other hikers eat delicious meals they’d dehydrated at home. And the treats they carried because they double-hutted and had fewer days between towns.”
He laughed about it, adding that while others enjoyed lighter packs and extra goodies, they may also have missed long, special afternoons in some huts.
The standout item for Klaus and Sonja was simple and practical: gaiters.
“We liked our gaiters, especially down south. The risk of a snake bite might be low, but we felt better wearing them.”
Must have item on the Track according to Klaus and Sonja – gaiters!
A tip for future end-to-enders
Klaus doesn’t believe in a single magic piece of advice.
“Maybe it’s just this: take the first step, then the next. That’s what helps me get started.”
Note from the editor: After hearing about Klaus and Sonja’s story, and seeing their photos, the two friends who inspired the couple to complete a thru-hike of the Bibbulmun Track have decided to return to the Track and do it again, more than 10 years after their first end-to-end!
This story is part of Voices from the Track, a series celebrating the people who make the Bibbulmun Track come alive. Each month, we share stories from walkers — from end-to-enders to section hikers — highlighting their challenges, triumphs, favourite spots, and top tips.
Have you recently completed your own end-to-end of the Bibbulmun Track?
Register your walk with the Bibbulmun Track Foundation to feature in our End-to-Enders Gallery — and share your story in Voices from the Track!
Hiking on the Bibbulmun Track in Australia’s South West
